✨ Why visit the Livno wild horses:
– Unique experience: A herd of 800+ wild horses
– Stunning landscape: Livanjsko Polje beneath the Dinaric Alps
– Authentic adventure: Safari tour with a local guide
– My recommendation for when to visit: Between May and October
🐴 BOOK YOUR WILD HORSE SAFARI TOUR – DEPARTING FROM MOSTAR→
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As someone whose parents are from Livno and who spends every summer in this beautiful region, I can tell you that the wild horse safari in Livno is one of the most authentic experiences you can have in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This isn’t a tourist attraction created for visitors – this is a real herd of wild horses that has been living freely on Livanjsko Polje for generations.
In this guide, I’ll share my personal experience with the wild horses, show you how to get there, where to eat the best livanjski sir and burek, and give you all the practical information you need to plan the perfect trip.
My Story: The Wild Horses I’ve Watched Since Childhood
I grew up listening to my family’s stories about the wild horses that have always been part of Livno’s landscape and its famous polje (the longest cryptodepression in all of Europe!)
These horses are believed to be descendants of horses left without owners during World War II. Over the past 80 years, they’ve adapted to life in the wild and developed into a unique herd of over 300 animals. Not tamed, not fed – completely wild and free.
Why this is special: The Livno wild horses are among the last free-roaming horse herds in Europe. Unlike “wild” horses in other locations that are actually abandoned or semi-wild, the Livno herd has been living completely independently for decades.
Wild Horse Safari: My Tour Experience
I’ve done the wild horse tour twice and was thrilled both times!
Here’s what you can expect:
What the safari tour looks like
- Duration: Approximately 3-4 hours
- Transport: Off-road vehicles suited for the Livno terrain
- Guide: Local expert who knows the herd’s habits
- What you’ll see: The herd in its natural habitat, often with foals during spring and summer
- Included: Transport, guide, traditional kahva (Bosnian coffee) and rakija
Our guide was fantastic – he told us about the history of the horses, showed us the best spots for photos, and even let us get quite close to the herd. The atmosphere of watching these magnificent animals running free is something I’ll remember forever.
Best time to visit the wild horses
You can see the horses year-round, but from my experience:
- May-June (THE BEST!): Foals are young and playful, the weather is pleasant, and the meadows are lush green.
- July-August: Warm but lovely, great for combining with a trip to the Adriatic coast.
- September-October: Fewer tourists, comfortable temperatures, autumn colours.
- Winter: Horses are still visible, but it can be cold and snowy (Livno winters are harsh!).
My tip: If you can, come in June. The foals are big enough to run with the herd but still playful and curious. Plus, the livanjski sir at that time of year is at its freshest!
How to Get to Livno
Livno isn’t the easiest place to reach – which is actually part of its charm – but there are several ways to get there.
By plane + Rental car (BEST OPTION)
- Fly to Split, Croatia (nearest international airport – 2h drive)
- Rent a car at the airport
- Drive to Livno through the beautiful Dalmatian landscape
Split is the ideal starting point for your trip to Livno. Compare flight prices and find the best deals.
Alternative airports:
- Mostar (1.5h drive) – fewer flights, but closer
- Sarajevo (3h drive) – more flights, longer drive
- Zadar (2.5h drive) – good for a combined coastal trip
Important: Border crossing and documents
If you fly into Split (Croatia) and travel to Livno (Bosnia and Herzegovina), you’ll be crossing an international border. You’ll need:
- Passport or ID card (for EU citizens)
- Green card for your car (insurance that covers BiH – check with your rental company!)
- Travel insurance that covers Bosnia and Herzegovina (recommended)
Don’t forget travel insurance that covers Bosnia and Herzegovina. Essential for car rental and a safe stay.
By car from Croatia (Makarska, Split, Dubrovnik)
Many tourists holidaying on the Croatian coast add Livno as a day trip or weekend excursion:
- From Makarska: 1.5h (95 km) – the shortest route
- From Split: 2h (140 km)
- From Dubrovnik: 3.5h (via Mostar)
Where to Stay in Livno
Livno isn’t a tourist hub, which means there aren’t many hotels – but that’s part of its charm (hotels Novitas, Bacchus).
Livno has a tradition of private accommodation with local families, and that’s what I’d recommend. The benefits:
- Cheaper (€20-35/night)
- Authentic experience
- Hosts can help you arrange a safari tour
- Often offer homemade food (breakfast, dinner)
Combined stay: Livno + Adriatic Coast
My tip for the perfect trip:
Most people combine Livno with a beach holiday on the coast. Here’s the ideal combination:
- 2-3 nights in Livno (wild horses, nature, traditional food)
- 5-7 nights on the coast (Makarska, Split, or Brač)
This approach lets you experience both the mountain and coastal parts of the region, and the distance is short (1-2h drive).
Where to Eat in Livno: My Favourite Spots
Alright, this is the part where I have to admit I’m biased. I grew up eating livanjski sir, homemade burek, and traditional dishes that my parents learned from their parents. Let me show you where to try the best!
Livanjski Sir – MUST TRY #1
What is livanjski sir?
Livanjski sir is a protected geographical indication product (like champagne or parmigiano). It’s made from sheep’s milk from Livno’s pastures, aged in brine, and has a unique sharp-salty flavour. It’s not for everyone, but if you love strong cheeses – you’ll fall in love!
Where to buy the best livanjski sir:
- Mljekara Lura – the largest producer. The address is here.
- Small family producers – ask your hosts for recommendations
Tip: You can take livanjski sir home with you! It keeps for a long time thanks to the brine.
Burek and Pita: The difference between zeljanica, krumpируša, and sirnica
One of the most common questions I get: “What’s the difference between all these pitas?” Here’s a simple explanation:
- Burek: ONLY with meat (beef or mixed). In Bosnia, if it’s not with meat, it’s not burek!
- Sirnica: Pita with cheese (usually fresh cheese)
- Zeljanica: Pita with spinach (or chard) and cheese
- Krumpируša: Pita with potato
- Tikvenica: Pita with pumpkin (slightly sweet, rare but fantastic)
Where to eat the best burek in Livno:
“FOKUS” – Homemade Pitas
- Address: Trg domovinskog rata 4, Livno 80101, Bosnia & Herzegovina
- Price: €2-3 for a large portion
- Tip: Arrive before 9am for freshly baked burek. You can eat in the restaurant.
Šarić
- Address: Located in the centre.
- Must try: Zeljanica and yogurt
- Price: €2-3 for a large portion
- Tip: Arrive before 9am for freshly baked burek. Takeaway only (no tables to sit and eat)
How to eat burek like a local:
- Order burek or your choice of pita
- Always with yogurt (sour yogurt, not sweet!)
- Some people prefer it with kiselo mlijeko (soured milk) instead of yogurt
- Eat with your hands (if you grew up in Bosnia) or with a fork (for tourists 😊)
Other Traditional Specialities
While you’re in Livno, make sure to try:
- Livanjsko meso pod sačem: Lamb or veal roasted under an iron bell covered with embers. Needs to be ordered in advance!
- Sataraš: Peppers, tomatoes, and eggs – a perfect breakfast
- Bosanski lonac: A hearty stew with multiple types of meat and vegetables
- Tufahije: A dessert of apples stuffed with walnuts and topped with whipped cream
What Else to See in Livno
The wild horses are the main attraction, but Livno and its surroundings offer much more:
Livanjsko Polje
The largest polje (field) in BiH and one of the longest cryptodepressions in Europe. In winter, it often transforms into a lake (Livanjsko jezero) while in summer it’s dry and covered with meadows where the horses graze.
Mandek Lake
Mandek Lake, located near the village of Misi outside Livno, is known for its peaceful landscape and untouched nature. Crystal-clear water and wide meadows around the lake make it an ideal spot for relaxation and short excursions. Thanks to its distance from the crowds, this lake often reveals its most beautiful side to those seeking tranquillity and an authentic natural atmosphere.
Sturba River
The Sturba River flows through Livno fields and is one of the recognisable symbols of this region. It’s known for its clear water, calm flow, and green banks that create a pleasant natural ambience in the heart of town. Along the Sturba, you’ll find walking paths and spots for relaxation, making it popular with locals and visitors alike. You can also try kayaking on the Sturba River!
Church of Our Lady of Goranc
A pilgrimage site on a hill above Livno with beautiful views of the entire polje. Even if you’re not religious, the view is worth the climb.
Duvanjsko Lake
30 minutes’ drive from Livno, this reservoir lake is great for a rest and picnic after visiting the horses. The water is cold even in summer (mountain waters!), but refreshing after a hot day.
Ancient Roman Ruins
Livno was a Roman settlement (Municipium Salvium). There are remains of a Roman aqueduct and other structures, although they’re not in the best condition. For history enthusiasts!
Practical Information and Tips
Money and Prices
- Currency: Convertible Mark (KM or BAM), 1 KM ≈ 0.51 EUR
- ATMs: Available in the town centre
- Cards: Accepted in hotels, but cash is better for restaurants and markets
- Safari tour: €40-60 per person (depending on group size)
- Meal: €5-15 per person
Internet and Communication
Livno isn’t a big town, and phone signal can be weak in some parts of Livanjsko Polje. I recommend:
An eSIM card is the best solution – activate it before you arrive and you’ll have internet the moment you land. Ideal for navigation, bookings, and sharing photos of the wild horses!
Language
- Local language: Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian (very similar)
- English: Younger people in town speak basic English
- Safari guides: Usually speak English
Useful phrases:
- Dobar dan – Hello
- Hvala – Thank you
- Koliko košta? – How much?
- Gdje su divlji konji? – Where are the wild horses? (locals will understand!)
What to Bring
For the wild horse safari:
- Comfortable footwear: Hiking shoes or sturdy trainers
- Layers: It can be windy on the polje
- Sun protection: Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen
- Camera/phone: With a zoom lens if you have one
- Water: Hydration is important
- Insect repellent: Mosquitoes can be annoying at dusk
Rules of Conduct Around the Wild Horses
IMPORTANT – Please respect these rules:
- ❌ Don’t feed the horses – they’re wild and need to stay that way
- ❌ Don’t touch the horses – they can be dangerous if startled
- ❌ Don’t shout or run towards the horses
- ✅ Keep a safe distance (at least 10-15 metres)
- ✅ Listen to your guide – they know the herd’s behaviour
- ✅ Respect nature – take your rubbish with you
The Livno herd is part of our natural heritage – let’s help keep them wild and healthy for future generations!
Itinerary for a Perfect Weekend in Livno
Here’s how I’d plan an ideal 2-day visit:
Day 1: Arrival and Safari
- 10:00 – Arrive in Livno, check into accommodation
- 11:00 – Early lunch: Burek at Emir’s
- 15:00 – Wild horse safari (3-4 hours)
- 19:00 – Dinner: Traditional food at Stari Grad restaurant
- 21:00 – Evening stroll through Livno’s centre
Day 2: Exploring the Surroundings
- 08:00 – Breakfast
- 09:00 – Visit the town market (if it’s Saturday)
- 10:00 – Drive to Duvanjsko Lake or Our Lady of Goranc
- 13:00 – Lunch
- 15:00 – Buy livanjski sir to take home
- 16:00 – Depart for the coast (or continue your journey)
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I see the wild horses without a tour?
Technically yes – if you have a car, you can drive around Livanjsko Polje and you’ll often see them from the road. BUT, a safari tour gives you:
- A guide who knows where the herd is (the polje is huge!)
- An off-road vehicle to access remote areas
- Information about the horses and their history
- Safety – guides know how to behave around the herd
In my opinion, the tour is worth the money!
Can I ride the wild horses?
No! These are wild horses, not domesticated ones. It’s dangerous to try to approach them, let alone ride them. There are local farms that offer riding on domesticated horses if you’re interested.
Is Livno safe for tourists?
Absolutely! Livno is a very safe town. As a woman who often travels alone to Livno, I’ve always felt safe. Locals are friendly and welcoming to tourists. Standard precautions you’d take anywhere are sufficient.
How much should I budget for a weekend in Livno?
Estimate for 2 nights/3 days (per person):
- Accommodation: €60-100 (2 nights)
- Safari tour: €40-60
- Food: €30-50
- Transport (car): €40-80 (rental + petrol)
- TOTAL: €170-290 per person (excluding flights)
Livno is one of the most affordable trips you can take in Europe!
Is Livno suitable for families with children?
Absolutely! Children love the wild horses. The safari tour isn’t physically demanding (you ride in a vehicle), and kids will be thrilled to see the foals. My cousins come to Livno every summer and it’s their favourite part of the holiday.
Conclusion: Why Visit the Wild Horses of Livno
For me, the Livno wild horses are more than a tourist attraction – they’re part of my family heritage and connection to the region where my parents come from. But even if you don’t have a personal connection to Livno, this experience is unforgettable:
- 🐴 Unique experience: One of the last free-roaming herds in Europe
- 🏔️ Beautiful nature: Livanjsko Polje beneath the Dinaric Alps is spectacular
- 🧀 Authentic food: Livanjski sir, burek, traditional dishes
- 💰 Great value: An affordable trip compared to the rest of Europe
- ❤️ Warm welcome: Livno locals are hospitable and proud to show off their region
Next time you’re planning a trip to the Adriatic, consider adding 2-3 days for Livno. You won’t regret it – I promise! And if you see me there during the summer, say “dobar dan” – I’m probably there with my family, eating burek and chatting with the horses. 😊
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Last updated: November 2025. All information on prices, restaurants and tours has been verified, but may change. If you notice anything out of date, please let me know!
